What makes a jacket waterproof?

Image by Alysia Georgiades

Whether it’s the daily commute, a hiking holiday, or just the British summer, waterproof jackets are a staple for everyone’s wardrobe.

But in their effort to protect us from nature’s harshest weather, they can end up damaging nature itself.

PFAS (per-and polyfluoroalkyl chemicals) have been used in a range of products for years, but were phased out fairly quickly after research revealed how harmful certain PFAS can be to the environment and our health. With studies revealing traces of PFAS found in animals and humans, alongside their stubbornness to biodegrade, kinder alternatives are now used in a range of home and living products. But it seems the clothing industry is struggling to find a less harmful way of waterproofing materials.

Despite this, popular outdoor brands are aware of the concerns around PFAS, and are making an effort to change.

PFAS are currenty the best at preventing soaking, oil and other substance stains. Image courtesy of Unsplash

Craghoppers are big on sustainability and have partnered with Gore-Tex to produce PFC-free (per fluorocarbons) waterproof clothing, using a DWR (Durable Water Repellent) instead.

Natural shoe-brand All Birds have ventured into outerwear, producing a puffer-jacket that is water resistant thanks to a “fluorine-free” DWR approved by Bluesign, who encourage sustainable manufacturing of textiles. If their stamp of approval is on a product, it means it’s been thoroughly checked by Bluesign’s criteria to follow specific standards.

The North Face are another brand who have partnered with Bluesign, with their mills and energy usage, fabrics, emissions and more all assessed. They are also committed to finding a PFC-free DWR for their products.

Then there are lesser known brands such as BAM, who specialise in bamboo clothing, who have developed a 98% recycled jacket with a Teflon EcoElite DWR. The plant based fluorine-free alternative is one of the most durable around, even claiming the waterproofing lasts longer than PFCs.

The main difference between PFCs and PFAS-based products and kinder DWRs is that the former can also repel oils and non-water substances.

Learn more:

• PFAS-free products

• What to know about PFAS

The University of Leeds explained the results of a study from researchers in Leeds and Stockholm, showing consumer products have an “unnecessary resistance to oil and other stains”, when it is really only water that we need to be protected by.

In the case of professional clothing for medics and other emergency workers dealing with chemicals and oils, the research concluded PFAS are the only chemicals to provide protection against these substances. But where the general public are concerned, the researchers believe readily available greener alternatives should be enforced.

An article by Wired explained that DWRs may not be as good at preventing soaking as PFAS under extreme weather conditions. But with research and technology continuing to find a solution to this, an eco-friendly alternative might be on the horizon.

In a way a product as simple as a waterproof coat is something we've taken for granted. We know they work, they protect us, and we've never really thought about how or why. But it's good that we finally are. Change has already started, and hopefully in a few years time our jackets will protect us from storms, and the planet from us.