Let's talk about sunscreen

Image by Alysia Georgiades

Yes it’s currently winter, we hardly see the sun and are indoors most of the time, but why not talk about sunscreen?

In truth, this is where it all began for me. On the simple search for an SPF moisturiser, I ended up emptying my skincare bottles and starting from scratch. Because what I learned about sunscreen changed how I viewed the entire skincare industry.

I was plastered with white cream on my face when I was younger, because the sunscreen wouldn’t absorb into the skin. This is a sign of a mineral-based product. And when it comes to sun care, this is the type of cream I want to use. And luckily, they often come with a much thinner white cast than they used to.

There are two distinct types of sunscreen formulas; mineral and synthetic. Both are safe, but synthetic products contain, as you might have guessed, synthetic ingredients. There has been some controversy over certain ingredients in recent years, which was one of the reasons I chose not to use them, but it was science that actually won me over.

I spent months researching sunscreen, and when I learned how mineral and synthetic creams work, I was able to make a clear choice. Synthetic sunscreens absorb the uv rays as they hit your skin. This is why these products often say to wait before heading outside, to give the cream time to sink into the skin so it can do its job.

But mineral sunscreens sit on top of the skin, with the minerals themselves - zinc oxide and titanium dioxide - reflecting UVA and UVB rays off our skin by creating a layer above it. It’s why these products are often thicker, and can be felt on the skin, compared to synthetic creams. It also means there’s no waiting time, once it’s applied you’re good to go.

But sadly it’s not as black and white as that. Some companies use a mix of synthetic and mineral active ingredients, while others fill the remainder of the product with parabens, silicons and harsh chemicals. There are also mineral sunscreens on the market that feel nicer on the skin as a result of nano zinc oxide and nano titanium dioxide being used.

Now this might sound technical but stay with me; nano simply means nanoparticles of the minerals, and this means they can be absorbed by the skin. There currently isn’t much research to say what the effects of this can be on our health, with some studies concluding its safety, while others discover more negative outcomes when the ingredients are inhaled or sprayed (such as in loose powders or aerosols).

This is why most mineral-based sunscreens use either non-nano zinc oxide or non-nano titanium dioxide, or both, meaning the particles are larger and cannot be absorbed by the skin. They sit on top and reflect the UV rays, and wash away in water or sweat.

Speaking of washing away, non-nano mineral-based sunscreens are also reef-safe, making them harmless to our oceans and sea life. Recently studies have been finding shocking results of sunscreen on ocean life, and so any product that says it’s reef-safe is usually safe for us too.

I’ve just scratched the surface here and will come back to this topic, but these are the basics I have learned that opened my mind to cleaner, and safer, skincare.

Further reading:

• EWG sun care information

• Literature review on the safety of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens

• Zinc oxide: Suntribe sun care

Images by Alysia Georgiades